Did you know that ocean waves are energy passing through the water? Energy makes the water move in a circular motion and the water doesn’t actually travel much. It’s merely the transfer of kinetic energy through the water. Such an illusion! Magic. ;)

This grand illusion is what allows surfers to catch the waves, riding the ocean’s ripples. Most waves are surface waves where the wind travels and what you would see at the beach. Others are caused by high winds such as rogue waves where they move in opposite directions resulting in a collusion. A good example of this is the movie “The Perfect Storm.”  Rogue waves can rise over 100 feet and given free rein to sink any ship in its path. 

The most dangerous, as you may know, are caused by land. Tsunamis. A tsunami (tsu = harbor, nami = wave) is a series of waves triggered by an earthquake, landslide or a volcanic eruption. The largest wave (tsunami) was recorded on July 9, 1958 at 1,720 feet high…higher than the Empire State Building which is 1,470 feet tall. This mega-tsunami was caused by a double whammy; a 7.8 magnitude earthquake in Alaska that triggered a massive landslide in its Lituya Bay. Luckily, there wasn’t much civilization in that area and the casualties were two anglers. 

Beach time!